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First ascent of Lenin Peak
Friday, 08 July 2011 00:00

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From Dr. Eugen Allwein (jun.), Munich, Germany
First ascent of Lenin Peak
"In 1871, the Russian explorer Alexei P. Fedchenko, coming from the fertile Ferghana valley, entered the Alai valley and saw as the first modern traveller a long wall of high glaciated mountains with a culminating point he named after the Governor General of Turkestan, K.P. von Kaufmann.
In 1871, the Russian explorer Alexei P. Fedchenko, coming from the fertile Ferghana valley, entered the Alai valley and saw as the first modern traveller a long wall of high glaciated mountains with a culminating point he named after the Governor General of Turkestan, K.P. von Kaufmann.

 

 

Almost 50 years later, in the late summer of 1928, during the joint Soviet-German Alai-Pamir Expedition, three members of the German team (Allwein, Schneider and Wien), accompanied by L.A. Perlin from the Soviet team and two Tajik porters (Dario and Bodar), left the Kirghiz summer camp at Altyn Mazar and went up the unknown Saukdara valley to reach the summit of Peak Kaufmann.
On 29 September 1928 at 8.30am the Germans left their last camp at the pass today named Krylenko Pass, in honour of a member of the Soviet team, and reached the summit at 3.30pm.
The photos shown below were taken on the day of the final ascent by Eugen Allwein and printed for the first time."
Almost 50 years later, in the late summer of 1928, during the joint Soviet-German Alai-Pamir Expedition, three members of the German team (Allwein, Schneider and Wien), accompanied by L.A. Perlin from the Soviet team and two Tajik porters (Dario and Bodar), left the Kirghiz summer camp at Altyn Mazar and went up the unknown Saukdara valley to reach the summit of Peak Kaufmann.
On 29 September 1928 at 8.30am the Germans left their last camp at the pass today named Krylenko Pass, in honour of a member of the Soviet team, and reached the summit at 3.30pm.

The photos taken on the day of the final ascent by Eugen Allwein are published for the first time in the Lenin Peak Climbing Map.


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